So much so that the colourless liquid is actually used in almost all jasmine-based scents. You know that so-distinctive smell when rain falls onto earth? Byredo Accord Oud (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). Dior Diorissimo It might be from birch tar (which has a leathery smokiness), or juniper, aldehydes or other synthetics, designed to give a skin-like scent. Vera Wang Vera, Deadly nightshade. Stella McCartneyStella As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'Freesia in perfumery is an imaginary reconstitution - but the smell is gorgeous.' jasmine is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world. (Over the centuries, its also been valued as a medicinal and was actually recommended by the famous herbalist John Gerard; elecampane has been prescribed for shortness of breath and water retention.) Most famous as a recreational drug, the fibres of the plant can be woven into tough cloth hemp and every part of the flower is edible: hemp seed oil is highly nutritious, and great for skin, too (internally and externally). Boadicea the Victorious Regal Dior Dolce Vita In India, meanwhile, narcissus one of the oils applied to the body before prayer, along with jasmine, sandalwood and rose. Actually, its a flower closer to the cottage garden pink similar to the variety so loved by British gardeners, and known as clove-pink which is used in perfumery. Belladonna gets its name from the Italian, belle donna (beautiful woman): when consumed in small quantities, it opens the pupils, enhancing a womans attractiveness, and it has a long tradition of use as a medicine, cosmetic, and recreational hallucinogen (in small doses). Here's what perfumerSarah McCartneyhas to say about this ingredient: 'I bought opoponax at first just for the name. Acacia. Donna Karan Be Delicious gives us petitgrain, but in this case its mostly the leaves and twigs from which the oil is extracted. Chlo LoveChlo Penhaligons Halfeti The Bacchanalians tore him apart. Bracing, uplifting and almost nose-tinglingly spicy, ginger pairs beautifully with vanilla, woody notes and citrus, as well as white flowers like jasmine and neroli. The plant valiantly grows in mountain areas above 3,500 metres, in countries like India, Tibet, Bhutan and Sikkim. Its bittersweet freshness works well in Colognes and summer scents, when a shot of green is called for. Ormonde Jayne Tiar. Grasse jasmine contains the highest natural levels of indole one of the reasons its the priciest jasmine in the world. ), to lighten the woodiness. Alienor adds: 'It's smells like tea, actually.' (Almost all fougre fragrances are targeted at men, by the way.). 5, making it one of the first synthetics in fragrance. Yves Saint Laurent Paris. Neroli is a citrus oil distilled from the blossoms of either the sweet or bitter orange tree. Lanvin Arpge Floris Lily of the Valley But in modern perfume creation, hawthorns recreated synthetically - adding freshness and a sparkle to several well-known and a raft of gorgeous nichecreations. "It adds a sunny sparkle to the top notes and blends harmoniously with everything from other citruses, to fruits, florals, and woods.". The jazz chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing. A Bellini cocktail is a must for many thousands of visitors to Venice, who since 1948 have flocked to Harrys Bar in Venice to sip on their speciality: a cocktail of sparkling white Prosecco and white peach puree. Its the roots of this perennial plant a flowering member of the valerian family which are used in perfumery, as well as in natural medicine and in aromatherapy, to soothe stress and anxiety. "Jasmin Sambac adds richness and naturality to all my creations and is quintessential for my floral bouquets.. His father prayed for Orchis to be restored, but instead the gods transformed him into the flower we know today as the orchid. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatale Methylene chloride is often found in fragrances and is one of the most common beauty product ingredients. Over a hundred species of honeysuckle exist and among the most fragrant are the wild English honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) the Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) and Lonicera fragrantissima, which comes originally from China. 19th Century courtesans in Shanghai used it to dye their underwear a vibrant yellow. Theyre wonderful in the home, possibly the perfume-lovers must-have bloom. "Jasmine notes are powerful, green fruity facets reminiscent of honeysuckle. (Always hoping, of course, for a really sweet, juicy mandarin rather than the occasional disappointment of something a little tart) In Traditional Chinese Medicine, mandarin also has an important role: its used to regulate qi, or life-force and in China itself, the fruits still linked with good fortune and luck. KenzoKenzo Amour Florale To paraphrase Shakespeare, jatamansi by another name would smell as sweet and its got plenty of those other names: nard, spike, muskroot, tapaswini and sumbul are just some of the other words used for this ingredient. An oil from the Indian sandal tree, sandalwood is one of the oldest known perfumery ingredients, that is commonly used as a base note. The odor profile of this multifaceted material includes sweet fresh hay notes along with blond tobacco and soft, creamy nut-like nuances," says perfumer Gwen Gonzalez. Theyre also often left to produce fruit, which can be infused to extract an intense berry scent. Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade Sometimes, a perfumer will put them side by side in the same fragrance, to create the equivalent of a fig soliflore. Through a process of fractionation separating the different elements of an individual ingredient, and removing the potential sensitiser its possible to get an ingredient thats much closer to the oakmoss we know and loved. ", A heavy, full-bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note, amber oil comes from the Baltic amber tree. The ingredients of another face cream he lists as follows: eggs, barley, gum, narcissus bulbs, honey, ground vetch, wheat flour, and powdered antlers. Its fascinating to us how perfumes which are invisible can have a texture, but the fragrances listed below really do give a sense of that, as they cocoon you with their musky, woody, velvety, leathery qualities. Deep, dark, earthy and present in plenty of Ambre perfumes, patchoulis still got a hippie-dippy aura, even now. Herms Un Jardin Aprs le Mousson Its incredibly versatile, in a perfumers hands: it softens, balances, fixes (adds staying power and keeps a fragrance on the skin, while stopping other short-lived ingredients from disappearing too fast). By Kilian Bamboo Harmony It can actually be created in nature through the activity of a bacteria called Streptomyces, along with a special enzyme. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur An aromatic chemical that adds a sea breeze or marine-type note to fragrances, calone is a powder that is 100 percent man-made. It takes around three to four thousand kilos of gardenia flowers to produce a kilo of concrete (solid perfume) from gardenia plants so not surprisingly, this heady white flower is one of the priciest ingredients in a perfumers arsenal. Its been used in fragrance for millennia: the ancient Egyptians burned ambergris as incense, while the Chinese referred to ambergris as dragons spittle fragrance. Probably just as well: the datura flower has been linked to many deaths, and has many powerful and/or downright dangerous side-effects. Giorgio Armani Sensi Burberry Body In my perfumes, I love it - like a synthetic aldehyde - as it switches the light on, brings out the colours and contrasts. But did you know that licorce is used in love spells? ', Bulgari Jasmin Noir In reality, when you smell orchid as a fragrance note, today its more likely to be synthetic. Lacoste Pour Femme (When you smell gin, youre basically smelling juniper, actually.) Roja Parfums Risqu Our love of cinnamon dates back thousands of years: 2000 years ago the Egyptians were weaving it into perfumes (though it probably originates way before that, in China). Not the ones we now buy in supermarkets, which have become such a popular design statement. Mignonette also known as Reseda odorata originates in Northern Africa, but is cultivated commercially in the south of France to produce a delectably-scented essential oil, using solvents or a maceration technique. If youve been put off by a run-in with a Strawberry Shortcake doll, dont write this fruit ingredient off till youve discovered the strawberrys grown-up, sophisticated side in those scents listed below, Chopard Wish Peach blossoms are much-loved by the Chinese, thought to protect against bad luck and all kinds of evil; its also a symbol of longevity. Revlon Charlie Silver. Rochas Femme Guerlain Tonka Impriale It is an extremely rich, warm, and voluptuous rose odor with a hint of honey. "It gives a strong effect in a perfume even in a very small amount," says Gillotin. Calvin Klein Escape Here'sAndy Tauer on therestrictions on using cinnamon, which he shared withThe Perfume Society - and why he loves to use it, all the same: 'Ah a forbidden fruit, restricted by the EU and IFRA. Perfumers use notes from two stages of blackcurrants life: the blossom, and the fruit itself, both from the Ribes nigrum plant. Cartier Baiser Vol These are the types of challenges which perfumers face: the back-stories you cant imagine, when you un-stopper a bottle! (Beware, though: neat eucalyptus oil should be kept away from babies and small children, and avoided by those who suffer from asthma. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Juicy Couture Juicy Couture Britney Spears Fantasy Nasomatto Black Afgano LArtisan Parfumeur Bois Farine ), and you might get whispers of a floral note, with fruity undertones somewhere mid-way between a rose and a nectarine. Dior JAdore Its also on the official list of endangered flora of Brazil. "Smells like forest bathing to me.". Its kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. If someone asks a perfumer what balsamic means, wed hand them a pot of tolu. (You might better know it as the Seville orange tree.) The links are rooted in the tradition of the gantier parfumeurs, a guild of glove-makers in Paris who fashioned gloves for royalty and the aristocracy as far back as the 15th Century. Famously, Nicotiana tabacum - member of the nightshade family made its way to Europe via the Spanish, in around 1528. "There are two different extracts of clary sage: The oil is a bit more aromatic, while the absolute has notes of ambroxan, dried tea leaves, and gives a natural meadow effect., A commonly used perfume compound that smells like vanilla, coumarin is usually derived from the tonka bean (see below), but also found in lavender, sweetgrass, and other plants. Its also grown in southern France and in Cte d'Ivoire for the essential oil (and in in southern Turkey for its marmalade), Jo Malone London Oud and Bergamot Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumire Noire Pour Femme It takes around 400 kilos of flowers to produce one kilo of essential oil, and each tree provides around 10 kilos of flowers a year. Crush the leaves of this frothily-flowered plant, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically. Mariah Carey M Sniff out a bacon fragrance for yourself, and make up your own mind! Frankincense is incredibly powerful as an ingredient so its only generally used in teensy doses (except in perfumes designed to conjure up the smell of actual incense). Dior Hypnotic Poison Burberry Brit Its a harvest for patient souls: juniper berries (which can be blue, red-brown or orange) take three years to ripen, and are steam-distilled to release their pungency. Poets Narcissus, or Narcissus poeticus) is native to Europe, and growers cultivate it in the Netherlands and the Grasse area of France, extracting an oil which smells like a blend of jasmine and hyacinth. Grossmith Phul-Nana Adding a nutty quality, actually: soft, almost snuggly or skin-like. LOccitaneImmortelle de Corse. Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris Cdre Nina Ricci Ricci Ricci Bond No. Gucci Gucci by Gucci Gardeners everywhere probably wish that every dandelion on the planet could be weeded out and imprisoned in a perfume bottle. If you smell different concentrated absolutes (the oily liquids created through macerating the jasmine flowers), they have their own characters: some smell medicinal, some sweet, some musky, some green. Oakmoss is among perfumers most beloved ingredients: an essential element of fragrances within the chypre family (which you can read more about here), in partnership with bergamot: it anchors volatile notes. Half-way between a berry and a rose, wed say this note is. Herms Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan LOccitane Cherry Blossom Many windowsills boast an aloe vera plant, so useful for treating burns (including sunburn) but outside this cosmetic use, this perennial succulent plant is also very occasionally - used as a note in perfumery: green, vegetal, fresh and aquatic. Thats really the smell of cedar, which is of course also the wood used for pencils. (Though it was probably LArtisan Parfumeur Vanilia in which caramel made its sugary debut.) Tom Ford Jonquille de Nuit Lavender is thought to have originated in the highlands of India, but today its happy in all sorts of sunny, stony, well-drained spots around the world. First off, how to pronounce it: gwy-ack. Long-stemmed, its pollen-rich (with a somewhat phallic spike inside the sculptural single flower). Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli The tree probably gets its name from the Latin pira. Floris Fleur Anyone for Naked Lady? Every evening we had to brush them, polish them. It reminds people who know it of the Kir Royal, a celebratory cocktail blending cassis liqueur with champagne," says Benaim. Traditionally used as a medicinal herb - mostly in order to treat stomach ache and nausea - the Menthol mint essential oil (used at 4090% concentration in compositions) has long been enjoyed for its skin-cooling and spirit-reviving properties in Colognes, perfumes and cosmetic products, and overall, mint is enjoying something of a resurgence in both male and female fragrances over the past few years. These days youve got synthetics which are much easier to use, cheaper to buy and hang around for longer and act more rapidly. Passus means suffering; flos translates as flower so the plants are also known as Flowers of Jesus. Can it be sex-in-a-bottle? Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? Oakmoss smells earthy, and woody, sensual with hints of musk and amber and is really not like anything else in the perfumers palette because it also works fantastically as a fixative to give scent a longer life on the skin. And funnily enough, the scents somewhere in between the two, too, Britney Spears Fantasy Some hay fever sufferers, maybe but most of us just love the fresh, green scent of grass. The sacred herb;, the Romans called it and pretty sacred sage is, too, to perfumers. Collection of oudh from natural forests is now illegal under CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endanged Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), but some is now beginning to be plantation grown in Vietnam. And - we suspect is used to give an aura of magic, dark mystery and allure to perfume, rather than for the perfume itself. Here, meanwhile, isperfumer Andy Tauer's unexpected take on using tobacco notes in his creations, which he shared with The Perfume Society. Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection Oroville, Yummy, yummy rum: wonderful in cocktails to drink, glorious in perfumes an appetising gourmand ingredient that pairs well with woods, adding complexity, sweetness and intrigue. This masculine splash started as an artisan creation on the Caribbean island of St. Thomas, but many other West Indian islands (as well as American and European fragrance companies) now make a version. Apparently, this got its name from the way it manages to smell like a combination of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg sweet and dry, all at once. ", Frangipani is a fragrant tropical flower, also known as "West Indian Jasmine.". (Although LArtisan Parfumeur built a whole fragrant collection around it), Caron Secret Oud Lancme Trsor Your memory isnt deceiving you: if youve ever buried your nose in a bunch of these beautiful, delicate blue (or sometimes white or pink) flowers hoping for a whiff of something equally gorgeous, youll have been disappointed: theyve almost no scent at all. Frederic MalleNoir Epices. In perfume, it features as a fantasy note, to conjure up mystery and danger. Its also used for making charcoal, for posts and for engraving. And did we say sexy? In ancient Arabic perfumery, basil was known as the king of the fragrant plants. LArtisan Parfumeur Mre et Musc LOccitane en Provence Dlice des Fleurs Its used to beautiful effect in gourmand fragrances, and blends with woods and earthy notes, too. So theres some suggestion that datura, or angels trumpet, is used mostly for its mythical status rather than any unique aromatic qualities. Memo Quartier Latin Eau de Parfum Its a sensory experience: that candied breath of sugar. Dior Poison The scented oils obtained by cold-pressing the peel and unlike so many other plant ingredients, the aroma that you get from that process is almost exactly the natural scent of the ripe fruits peel. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Watch out for peach blossom becoming a more popular perfume ingredient, as the influence of the Middle East which has made for so many heady perfumes in recent years moves East, in response to the dawning love of fragrance among the Chinese. Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial Boucheron Trouble One of those light-the-blue-touch-paper-and-retire perfume ingredients, this. Its resinous. Nowadays, its widely cultivated: orange groves flourish from North Africa to North America, France and Italy. (For the Romans, hawthorn was a symbol of marriage. During the Roman Empire, huge quantities of frankincense made their way to Rome from Arabia. "Aldehyde adds an effervescent and bubbly almost kinetic feeling to fragrance," says perfumer Adriana Medina. Jo Malone London Blackberry and Bay, Zing! Olive has had many other therapeutic benefits: as an aphrodisiac, in healing balms and creams, as sedatives and tonics. "Used in several classical fragrances (like Chanel N5 or Jean Patou Joy), it is also experienced in luxe, modern fragrances. Marc Jacobs Splash of Basil Versace Versus. Lancme Miracle Intense Once upon a time (in the Victorian/Edwardian era), carnation was hugely fashionable (and if you ever manage to get your hands on a bottle of Carons now-extinct Bellodgia, you can experience just why it was so beloved). (There is a really well-researched, well-written article on aldehydes on the Perfume Shrine blog, if youd like the science bit in much more depth click here). What you smell actually comes from a sticky brown resin, taken from a plant that grows (often in very inhospitable, dry locations) in the Mediterranean, North Africa and the Middle East. But chocolates not a piece of cake for perfumers to work with: in the wrong hands it tips right over into ickiness, but in the right hands it further ups the sensuality of florals and of patchouli. (Though we do also invite you to improve your sense of smell through one of our nationwide workshops for subscribers click here for details. In an expert perfumers hands, though, that potency works to emphasise and amplify other ingredients, like patchouli, or to cut through what can be the overwhelming sweetness of tuberose and other white flowers. Miller Harris Couer de Fleur "Over the past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. Famously, myrrh was one of the three gifts brought to the infant Jesus by the Three Kings. Some people say it smells of onions or leeks; others, that it has a balsamy, resinous or even sweaty edge - but as with so many botanical ingredients, asafoetida can work magic when skilfully blended in perfumes: the teeniest of quantities acts as an accenter, to boost the power of other ingredients including galbanum, which is widely-used in chypre scents, including Ma Griffe by Carven, and Pierre Balmains Vent Vert. Cartier Les Heures Voyageuses Oud & Menthe The idea is that watery fragrances should actually should smell breezy, outdoorsy, like the mist thats in the air when we take a walk on a beach with the surf crashing against the sand. Calvin Klein Escape. Crabtree & Evelyn Nadiora Lancme O de Lancme Used in perfumes since ancient times, vetivers more popular than ever and features very, very widely in the base of fragrances because it works brilliantly as a fixative and so far, nobody seems to have come up with a satisfactory synthetic alternative. It evolves over time and is very complex, and requires a perfumers deftest touch but its incredibly valuable to noses as a fixative. The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). Mimosas are pod-bearing shrubs and trees now native mostly to Australia and the Pacific, though they put on a pretty spectacular show around the heartland of perfumery in Grasse, too, in the south of France . Memo Manoa Este Lauder Beautiful ChloEau de Parfum I love the woody, very diffusive aspect of this IFF molecule," says Benaim. "Muguet is a wildflower growing in the undergrowth, and its scent cant be captured naturally despite its sublime power," says perfumer Domitille Michalon-Bertier. Its actually a natural aroma chemical found in roses, but also citronella, geranium, palmarosa, petitgrain, eucalyptus. Just like daisies, the yellow flowers open at daybreak, and bed down for the night. Dior Bois dArgent (Doesnt mean it will. Gucci Envy I love them for that. A fragrance can be made up of dozens or even hundreds of different chemicals. We eat grapes, we drink them and sometimes, we dab or spritz a synthesised version on our pulse points. Equally bewitching. But a citron fruit (Citrus medica) is rarer than a lemon and not nearly so juicy. Yes, really: this salty, smoky breakfast food has been used in synthetic form as a novel (very novel) perfume ingredient in John Leydons Fargginay fragrance brand, in a specific bacn collection. Andy TauerUne Rose Vermeille You can enjoy it in colognes, Ambres chypres, as well as petal-perfect florals. The other type is leathery with woody smoky,undertones -not like birch tar, though, with its association of smokedsausages and campfires in October with wet wood. Once cut, theyre turned frequently to prevent them breaking down too quickly. A little dry, but with hints of pine in there, too. Shay & Blue English Cherry Blossom. Van Cleef & Arpels First It goes to show: flowers are more than what we see. Burberry Sport for Women Orange blossom is extracted from the flower through the use of solvents. This long-stalked plant has been used for centuries for medicinal purposes, as well as in cooking but with a little caution: the stalks may be edible, but the leaves are poisonous. Unfortunately, the downside of citral is that it can lead to sensivities and allergies so IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) regulates that it has to be used only with other ingredients that prevent a sensitising effect, and insist its labelled. Yardley Royal Diamond. DKNY Energising for Women And the mandarin tree gives us mandarin petitgrain, with a thyme-like scent. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Some of these alternatives smell close to the real thing, with animalic tones and other alternatives smell like sun-bleached clean laundry or driftwood.". 9 Benjoin The blossom of the bitter orange tree (a.k.a. Lancme La Vie Est Belle But papyruss history isnt just long, though: its fragrant. Its kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka Orange blossom absolute is richer, sweeter, headier there are hints of that other white flower, jasmine, about it (and if you look at its chemical make-up, there are similar aroma compounds in both). Diptyque LEau de Hesperides (Petitgrain, which you can read about here, is extracted from the leaves, for instance.) After those rhizomes have aged, theyre powdered and then steam-distilled, producing orris oil, which solidifies into something known as orris butter (or orris concrete), because of its oily, yellow texture and appearance. The Different Company Sienne dOrange. 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